People keep asking me why I don’t use the D300 instead of the D90. Here’s why – and for those of you who want the D300 body – the low down on improvements in the new D300s.
Nikon D90
When the Nikon D300 hit the market, I was very excited – but I had just spent all my cash on a trip to Hawaii, and I had to save up for it. By the time I had the money, it was a year later and the D90 had hit the market – and despite the body downgrade, the D90 was better. The D90 sensor is 1/3rd stop better than the D300 (5 points on the DXOMark rating scale = 1/3 stop), and offers better dynamic range, self cleaning sensor, and 720p HD video – for half the price. Will you notice the 1/3 stop difference? That depends. If you’re shooting on a D80 and you think ISO 800 looks OK, maybe not. I’m picky about digital noise, and I noticed a big difference. For me, it was an obvious choice – better quality images for half the price.
Nikon D300s
The new D300s adds the video and self-cleaning sensor of the D90, along with the other sensor improvements, and if the trend holds, likely another 1/3rd stop of low-light / shadow detail performance on top of improvements made with the D90. For professionals, those new features may make an upgrade worthwhile.
Why pick the D300s over the D90? Aside from the sensor improvements, the body really is better. I thought it was more cumbersome at first, but after getting my head around the different controls – I like them better. You’ll love the improved auto-focus performance and rugged construction of the D300s body. The D300s combines all the great features from the D90 and all the great features from the D300. In short, this is the crop-sensor camera to own if you’re a Nikon shooter. No contest.
Images courtesy of Bumpershine and Eleven Eight.
Use Window Light - What’s the easiest way to get professional looking light? Simple: Pose your model next to a big window during the daytime. In this case, Jordan is standing next to a large window. Large windows act like expensive professional photography soft-boxes – but you don’t have to cart around bulky equipment, or break your wallet.
Frame Your Subject – Be on the lookout for creative ways to frame your subject. In this case, I used the lines in the background to create an attractive frame for the portrait. Simple and effective.
Use What You Have – It’s easy to get caught up in gear lust, but you can get a shot like the first with a used DSLR and a $100 lens.
Gear – Nikon D80 (my backup camera), Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens. Just window light for the top image. The second shot utilized a strip soft box bounced off a mirror behind the model, and an SB-600 shot through an umbrella for the key light.
Models: Jordan, Kali
Stylists: Kristopherson Sloan / Studio Nine, Alicia Poppinga / The Electric Chair Salon
DJ Micro is an influential trance / breakbeat DJ from New York City. Thanks to RISE for bringing him to the Elevate dance floor at the Hotel! Elevate features VIP stage access that brings VIP wristband-wearers on the stage to mingle with the performing artists. On the one hand, it lets people get close to the action – on the other, it makes shooting a bit more challenging. These tips might help you navigate similar obstacles:
Use a Zoom Lens - I love primes, and I frequently shoot with my trusty 50mm f1.8, but in crowded spaces, where it’s difficult to control the distance between you and your subject, a zoom lens is a great asset. Shooting in clubs, I prefer my 18-135mm. It gives me great range and sharp images. It’s very distorting on the wide end, but it’s pretty sharp, and easy on the neck (lightweight). Oh – and it’s cheap to replace if a drunk club kid manages to destroy it – around $420 new.
Crop Close - If there’s a lot going on, it’s often difficult to keep the frame simple and maintain a strong subject focus. For these situations, it’s often best to choose close crops – headshots, head and shoulders, etc…
Use Off-Camera Flash - If you haven’t got an external flash and you aren’t using it off camera, you’re missing the strobist revolution. You can use small strobes the same way professional photographers use studio lighting.
Use Light for Emphasis - In a dark, cluttered environment, it’s relatively easy to avoid light spill on the background so that the emphasis stays on your subject. In tho close-ups pictured, I was contending with all sorts of clutter, people, and general craziness. By aiming the light away from the background, you can keep it just where you want it – on your subject. Minimizing distraction will give your photos stronger impact.
Capture the Right Moment! - One of the most important, and easily overlooked aspects of photography is timing. I have said it before, and I’ll say it again. Knowing when NOT to click is every bit as important as choosing a great subject, or getting the light right. In any non-still life photographic situation, you’re going to encounter key moments when the stars align to create your perfect photograph. While shooting musicians and DJ’s, I pay careful attention to composition, to the performer’s expression, to the rhythm of the music (you’ll find the performers sync up to it), to the focal plane, and the ambient lighting. When they all come together, that’s when you click the shutter release. Don’t miss those magic moments while you review shots of boring expressions.









